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3:Castration, Spaying and Basic Information.

A message about breeding and handling kits

 

My advice is don't breed, i have had large litters here when i rescued, some handed in some born here, kits as small as 3 weeks old will munch on raw rabbit with gusto, then the real hard work starts.

10 six  week old kits all baying for blood, every time you go to the house they are all clambering to get out, so you have to put them into manageable groups of say 2 or 3, then you need extra cages/hutches, if you don't do this sibling rivalry for food & attention kicks in, then the biting starts, they eat pounds of meat each day & need handling before they can be re homed, one kit is fun, ten kits are a living nightmare.

You may also find yourself with a maiden ferret who basically couldn't care a stuff for her babies, you then have to find a substitute mum, if that cant be found then you have to hand rear, expect to loose a good 50% of the kits if your feeding from birth, its not for the novice.

Any one breeding should have a good knowledge of genetics, at least 4 cages/hutches, a freezer full of rabbit, the local vets number on hand, at least 6 homes lined up, work part time, have a car, not be fussed about a holiday & that's before you start.

Basically forget it.

 

I am convinced the main problems with biting ferrets is lack of meat as kits don't do so well on dry food as a staple, i always found with tiny kits rabbit was better than chicken, i also think the splitting into small manageable groups is half the battle.

I must admit my two were really well looked after i saw them twice before i could take them home, each visit i saw 4 kits in a hutch with a 4 foot square run attached to the hutch, she had a big area set out for the ferrets & 5 of these  small set ups or the kits, they were all fed flesh but had a dish of complete & 2 water bottles one on the run & one on the cage front.

Handling has been a doddle with these two & i have not had as much as an excitement nip from either of them, both are very easy going ferrets & an absolute credit to the lady who reared them.

People should  know the basics even if they take on neutered ferrets & never have a kit, as we all know we get asked by non ferret people all sorts of questions & its nice to be able to dispel the myths but i also think us as ferret owners need to be clued up on all aspects of keeping ferrets.

The image of the working ferreter is also so different from the stereotypical '' there's nowt you can teach me about ferrets'' attitude, there ferrets are treated no differently from the ferrets kept as purely pets, its only a bad workman who blames his tools.

The best advice anyone can give a new ferret owner is buy a good ferret book by a british author & make sure you have a real good back up from people you get the ferret from & keep the meat feeds up in the case of kits, it does make a difference & even teeny weeny kits who will fit in the palm of your hand have teeth & will eat meat, starting them off that small on meat makes a huge difference.

Naturally they should be around 9/10 weeks before being re homed so if they have been reared properly & the new owner carry on the good work it should be plain sailing, yes there will be a few hiccups along the way but nothing to serious if the new owners follow a few simple do's & don'ts, most of it is common sense & ferret keeping should be an enjoyable experience, not a nightmare

 

Written by Kay.

 

Castration.

Castration is recommended for hobs, Not just to prevent unnecessary breeding it will also help to reduce aggression and smell, and to some extent it is also said to keep albino coats white.

                   

 

Vasectomy.

Vasectomy in hobs can come in useful if you keep more than one jill, a vasectomised hob will bring a jill out of season which can work out a lot less costly than having to get your jills the jill jab.

 

I waited at least twenty eight days after the hob has been operated on to use on the jill, just to be on the safe side, you can ask your vet for details on when is it safe to use your hob for this purpose.

 

A Note About Jills.

It is important to note that an entire jill will come into season about March time and will stay in season until she has been brought out of season by the use of a jill jab administered by your vet or by mating with a proven vasectomised hob.

It is important not to leave your jill in season as this will result in health problems or even death.

If you do not have a vasectomised hob consult your vet about spaying, this can be done around October to February , Spaying carries little risk to your ferret and is strongly advised for your jill.

Jill kits can also be spayed from the age of 6-8 months old.

 

 

Nails.

Ferrets have non-retractile nails, they can grow quite long if  they are not cut at regular intervals,use cat or dog or even human nail clippers to cut the nail,avoid the small red vein,if your ferret struggles when getting its nails cut,squeeze a small amount of ferretvite/ferretone onto it's stomach and sit your ferret on your knee, this will distract it long enough to cut the nails. the photo shows in red where it is safe to cut the nails.

 

Ears.

Check  your ferrets ear regularly, but don't poke about inside the ear. If your ferret is constantly scratching it's ears or shaking it's head, it could be ear mites or an ear infection, if  you are in any doubt on how to clean the ears, leave it to a vet or somebody who know's what they are doing.I find the easiest way to clean a ferrets ears is to scruff it with one hand and use the other hand to administer the drops. 

This picture show's you what your ferrets ears shouldn't look like.

 

Many people are not sure on how to clip their ferrets nails and clean their ears.

 

T.F.R can do this for you, we can also clean your ferrets ears and give ear mite treatment if needed.

 

There will be a small donation of £3:00 per ferret.

 

This will help help raise some funds to put back into the rescue

 

THE COMMON COLD & FLU VIRUS.

The human cold (rhinovirus) cannot be transmitted to ferrets, however the human flu virus can, and the ferret can pass it right back to you. It's still always a good thing not to go near or handle your ferrets if you are ill.


DISTEMPER

Ferrets can catch canine distemper and most vets recommend vaccination


HEAT
Ferrets do not sweat,nor do they have very efficient body cooling mechanisms,so heat stroke is a danger. Heat exhaustion can occur during the summer months. So keep the cage out of the hot sun, provide shade and make sure water bottles are topped up,you could also try putting shallow water bowls out for paddling.

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